Saturday, January 10, 2015

Shin splints

Our time in Buenos Aires has been fun so far! We are splitting up the days with a day trip to Colonia, Uruguay which is only a 1 hr ferry ride away.

On the night we arrived, we got to the house/apartment we were renting in Palermo Soho (area in Buenos Aires) and acted like we were in war torn Syria or something because we were all jumpy at every noise and creek because of the reputation this city has of being unsafe. The housing is very secure here even in our area, which is safe to walk around in at night, etc. We have 2 sets of locks with a long narrow hallway before you actually get to the house/apartment where it opens up at the back with other homes off shooting off the hallways as well. From the outside, it doesn't like anything at all and one of the other places that we can see into, even has a pool but you would never know from the street.  In our defense, a lot of the city is very poorly lit which probably adds to the crime although the terrible economy is what probably drive the desperation for some quick cash.

Inflation here is astronomical so Argentinians horde American dollars. It is the strangest thing. The official rate is $8.5 peso to $1 USD but you can Exchange money for up to 14 to 1 (non-bank) and maybe more if you're a local and know where to go (probably someplace shady that we wouldn't go).  Even restaurants and clothing stores will accept US at around 11-13. As a result, everything is cheaper than we expected which is nice since Chile was definitely more expensive. We didn't use public transportation here although it's supposed to be safe and efficient as taxis are pretty cheap especially with four people. 

Palermo is a great area with lots of restaurant, bars, small hotels and boutique clothing stores from local Argentinians designers. One store we went into had 5 rows of clothes and each row was from a different designer who was actually there and who you paid directly. Prices for cute unique items is very reasonable because of the dollar at the moment. Although the big international brand hotels are situated at Puerto madero and some in Ricoletta, Palermo is a more interesting and safe area, in my opinion, that has more reasonable prices for everything as its catering for locals and tourists alike. 

Tango lessons were an interesting experience! We went to Salon Canning near our apartment. We only pseudo understood the instructions as they wee mostly in Spanish. What a difficult dance! It would definitely take a long time to master but nonetheless, fun to watch the pros! Marta, our geriatric instructor, can still bust a move! You see random tango dancing in the streets in tourist areas as well with live music as well so we didnt to a Tango show per se. 

Travelling with Shy and Arif has been interesting. Arif's new nickname is "Shin splints" - his feet always seem to be  hurting and always wants to take a taxi even for a short distances instead of walking. They've been great travel buddies so far though. 

We did a city tour which was a quick and dirty overview of all the tourist sites including the Recoletta cemetery including Evita's tomb, the women's bridge, Caminato street in La boca, the Pink House, San telmo, etc. The cemetery seems like an odd place to visit but it's more like a cemetery of grand looking mausoleums where members of a family can be buried together (Often above ground). 

Because of the economy, some of the high end stores etc have shut down in Recoletta which was known to be the Paris of Latin America. It would have been nice to have one more day to explore BA a bit further including the more touristy areas. 

We ate like Kings and Queens while we were here! Of course Argentina is known for their beef and we definitely had our share of it! Even Shaila has good luck with vegetarian options even at the steak houses. See my post on BA food! We had a bit of a cockroach incident on the last night in BA and it was Shaila, the vegetarian, that saved the day! 



Thursday, January 8, 2015

Santiago Food/restaurant Review

Astrid Y gaston - $$$$
Very good (lamb, king crab spaghetti and crispy banana desert). Also in Lima and Bogata 

Fuente Almero - $ 
Chilean sandwiches. Id miss this despite good reviews on tripadvisor. 

Galindo - $
Good Chorillanas ("Chilean nachos"- french fries topped with sirloin, egg and onions) and spicy shrimp

Tiramisu - $$
Big Pizza place in Las Condes area. Wasn't too impressed despite good tripadvisor reviews. Pizzas could be shared

Ruca bar - $$
Tasty but don't go hungry as its tapas. Not close to other restaurants, etc

Jewel of India -$$$$
Tasty but very very overpriced for the portions etc. "Indian piquante" was also very spicy

Uncle fletches -$$
Awesome burgers! 




Monday, January 5, 2015

Feliz Ana Neuvo!

Happy new year in Spanish! Arif and Shaila arrived on Dec 30 and the rest of our trip has been been as a foursome! 

New Years Eve in Santiago was an awesome time! Everything here starts later in the day. People seem to wake up later and must start work later as Starbucks doesn't even open until 8 am in some areas, lunch is around 1 pm and most people eat dinner after 9 pm. So the New Years party started at 12:30 am! The nice thing about that is people spend the evening with family and then go out after! We went to dinner (Ruca Bar) then to watch fireworks near Entel Tower. There were tonnes of people in the streets lighting what we're basically fire balloons/kites - a bunch of them light up the sky but we saw a few fall and nearby burn little kids. That definitely wouldn't "fly" in North America but interesting to see!




The party we went to was at Castillo Hidalgo, which is at Santa Lucia Hill in downtown (tourist landmark). Because it's on a hill, we were bused up where there were 3 floors of different music. My fav floors were outside where they played chill house music and the upper floor that played a mix of reggae-tone, Latin and hip hop music. Apparently 500 of the 1800 sold out tickets were sold to Brazilians. We befriended a Spanish couple that explained a few things to us so we wouldn't miss out on where to get photos taken, New Years props  and let us know what music was Spanish vs Brazilian/Portuguese. Overall it was an awesome party! We left the party at 5 am which is the longest I've stayed out for as far as I can remember!



The best story of the night is Adam being tapped on the shoulder and the person saying, "hey you're good looking. I'm gay, you are too, right?!" And then to top it off, this guy happened to be an Opthamologist from CALGARY!! Let me remind you that were at a random club in Santigao, Chile. We haven't let Adam live that one down since it happened.

We also did a walking tour (Tours 4 Tips) of the main tourists spots of Santiago which was good overview of the city. Also, checked out Costanera Mall. This time we stayed in an apartment in Provendencia which was nice and central compared to Los Candes (area we stayed in the first few days).



Next stop, Buenos Aires!

Thursday, January 1, 2015

City of Graffiti


Valparaiso was a very interesting city and different than anything we have seen before. It's a bit like Hvar, Croatia meets Cinque Terra, Italy in that it's a port city with a lot of hills but that's the closest comparison I can think of. It is made up of 45 hills or Cerros and some of the hills have funiculars or small gondolas that take you up to the hills and of course, long staircases that you can use to get up as well. It is a UNESCO world heritage site now as well. 




When we first arrived and the taxi driver was taking us to where we were staying up in the hills, I wondered why I didn't do more research and just book something by the port but when we got to our place, the view from our room of the Bay Area was unreal and even better at night! We stayed at a B&B called Costal Azul run by the nicest Slovanian couple and can see why they have #1 rating on trip advisor in the B&B category in Valpareiso. It's definitely a change from a hotel but goes back a bit more to the backpacking days! Breakfast was super fresh included home made granola and yummy fresh fruits/smoothies, etc. 



Valpareiso is much more of what I was expecting from Chile in terms of its randomness. It's an extremely artsy place with a Bohemian feel. There is a combination of graffiti and intentionally painted murals on most of the streets of the city. People commission certain painters to paint the facades of there houses.  

The city is apparently the place to be for new years as the city has a population of only 300,000 but usually gets close to 2 million people on New Years with the grandest fireworks festival in all of Latin America. To get around here there are a million buses but they have "collectivo" system which is basically a shared taxi that has a sign above it to let you know the normal route it takes and if there is space, you can jump in. It's quite a good system. Of course they have normal taxis as well, but they are few and far between as the collectivos are abundant and much cheaper.

Back to Santiago for New Year's Eve!